Day Two on the Dempster was a much shorter
day, thanks to a marathon ride on Day One.  
We needed it, too, because 736 kilometers of dirt
road by motorcycle really takes a lot out of you!
Waiting for the
Mackenzie River
ferry at the
fishing village of
Tsiigehtchic (say
THAT three times
fast!)
An exceptional summer
thaw left the river banks
littered with logs and
debris several hundred feet
from the river.  The
Mackenzie River is
massive - it drains 1/5 of
Canada, and only the
Mississippi and Amazon
exceed it's flow.
Crossing the Mackenzie
River.  The weather is
notoriously unpredictable in
this area, but we had
managed to skirt the storm
clouds yesterday.  Today we
were not so lucky.  As soon
as we disembarked the ferry,
the sky unleashed a cold,
pelting rain that would last
for the next day and a half.
Inuvik, Northwest Territores, Canada
KM 736 of the Dempster Highway
Finally, the end of the road!  
This is the northern-most point
in Canada that can be reached
by roads (unless you count ice
roads, but we're saving that for
the next road trip).
(Just kidding.)
We only saw a few dozen other vehicles
over the last two days, and only three
motorcycles.  We only saw five other
motorcycle on our entire drive on the
Dempster.  We are one of a crazy...er,...
brave few.
We had heard horror stories
about how the road destroys
tires, so we came prepared
with enough plug kits and
CO2 cartridges to repair a
couple dozen punctures.  We
felt lucky to have made it
all the way to Inuvik before
getting the first flat on
Wendy's rear tire.  It took us
a few hours to find air (so
we didn't have to waste our
cartridges) and repair the
tire, but all in all we thought
we got off pretty easy...
This meant being
buffeted in the face by
wind and cold rain for
the last 128 kilometers
(over 75 miles) of the
road.  Our faces were
chapped like we'd been
skiing for a few weeks,
but hey - that's the
price you pay for
adventure.
Windburn, anyone?
Dust, dirt, gravel, and
rain combined to make
a thick impervious
paste on the faceshields
of the helmets (and our
bikes, and our gear,
and every other exposed
surface).  In order to
see, we had to ride with
our faceshields up.