Whew!  Glad we won't have to do that again!  (Ha Ha)  None of the
shops in town handled motorcycles tires, but the owner of this shop
was kind enough to let me use his machine so I could do the work
myself.  Nothing wakes you up like a little grease in the morning!
Back on the Mackenzie
River Ferry.  We hit the road
about 5 hours later than we
intended, but we were
confident we made the right
choice.  After all, we don't
want to spend the entire rest
of our ride dealing with
flats, right?
This shot kind of
gives you an idea of
how slow mike is - I'm
that speck waaaay off
in the distance.  (OK,
he's not usually quite
THAT slow...)
You if look closely,
though, you can see the
razor-sharp shale
laughing at us from
the roadway.
We made it almost to Eagle
Lodge, the half-way point of
the Dempster Highway, before
Flatty reared it's ugly head
once more.  All of our plug kits
were useless, though, because
these weren't punctures - these
were big ol' slits.  We managed
to cram enough sticky strips
in there to hold a little air, and
I made it to the lodge's tire
repair shop just as it officially
reached "Completely Flat".  
Once again I had to do all the
work, but no matter - we want
it fixed right so we don't have
to deal with any more flats.  
Right?
Remember that fire I mentioned
earlier?  Not only was it still
going strong, it was now
frighteningly close to Eagle
Plains.  It was already 9pm so
we really should have called it a
night, but we were worried about
where the fire would go.  We
decided to push on for Engineer
Creek about 100 miles to the
south, and it turns out we
made the right choice:  Just
hours after we passed through,
the fire overtook the road and it
was closed off just south of
Eagle Plains.
This is the scene from the road at
about 10:30pm.  The fire makes it look
like a sunset, which it rightfully
should have been long before 10:30pm,
but it wasn't because the sun doesn't
set, but it kind of was because it was
covered by smoke.  See?  Or maybe
that's just the extreme exhaustion
talking - We didn't reach the next
campground until 1:30am.
Day Four was off to a great start.  We certainly weren't as
apprehensive about the road as we had been on the way up, but
we weren't nearly as excited, either, because we knew what we
were in for.  We were up and ready for an early departure, and
we walked outside to find that my rear tire had gone flat
again.  Oh, goody.  Rather than chance a slow leak, we decided
to track down a shop where we could repair the tire properly...